The History of the Fireplace

Mans use of fire can be traced as far back as one million years ago. The fires then were built on the ground. While the ancient people were inside their huts, smoke accidentally escaped through holes in the roof. Approximately half a million years ago, fires were already built on a solid hearth and holes were deliberately made in the roof so smoke could exit.

Fires were traditionally placed in the middle of the room to allow maximum accessibility and heat output. The advancement of the first two-storey buildings led to the fireplace being relegated to the outside wall. The only material available then for building the floor of the second storey was wood. Obviously, it was unwise to build a fire on a wooden floor, so the fireplace was moved into a cut-out in the wall. The flue was placed horizontally so extraction of smoke was poor. Smoke would frequently have blown into the room. In the end, they discovered the principle of the chimney.

The means of using wood to heat homes and offices is almost as old as dirt. It can be traced back to the 1700s when Abraham Darby used procedures of smelting, where it was found out that iron provided a cost-efficient way of producing heat.

It was during the Victorian age when fireplaces began to grow popular. During this time, people discovered that aside from producing heat, fireplaces added a hint of elegance. It somehow gave homes a comfortable and traditional environment. Through the years, housing designs evolved and so did the fireplaces, along with the technology. Fireplaces changed and became more fashionable, offering sand casting systems. This provided a chance for makers to create even more superior designs.

In spite of all the changes and the advancement, the basic fireplace is still made up of two components the surround and the insert. The surround part of the fireplace is composed of the mantle and sides. It is typically made of wood, granite, marble, and sometimes iron. The insert is the part of the fireplace where the fire is burned. This part is constructed using cast iron and is frequently adorned with stylish tiles of different colors and designs.

Benjamin Franklin had an important part in the discovery of fireplaces. He found out that fireplaces lose a significant amount of heat through the wall. It gave him the idea to make the first freestanding firebox, which came to be recognized as the Franklin stove. He put his first stove in the middle of the room, which solved his problem on how to look for means to heat a room. The outcome of the experiment was that the whole room was heated completely and equally. His other finding was that by using heavy cast iron, the heat continued being produced even when the flames had died out.

Still, with all his excellent discoveries, Franklin's effort had a defect. The hitch was that air cannot be drawn in. This is because the smoke was vented from the bottom. David Rittenhouse, from Philadelphia, decided to utilize Benjamin's invention but innovated it by putting in an L-shaped stovepipe as a means of moving the air through the fire and then emitting the smoke out through a chimney. This add-on proved quite successful. It was in the late 1700s that these freestanding stoves were being used all over the country. Although David Rittenhouse made the stove a success, people still identified it by the name Franklin Stove.

JB Anthony is the webmaster of Fireplace-Ideas.Info. Get more of his FREE tips and information on fireplace designs and on history of the fireplace or visit http://www.Fireplace-Ideas.Info

Remodeling Tips and Advice

New Construction Windows

Hello, my name is John Rocco.I grew up around the window and door business. My father owned a glass shop that dealt in every aspect of residential and commercial glass.Naturally, when it came time to choose a profession, i wound up in the window and door business.I have been in the business for about 27 years, and i have been self employed for 20.

One of the things that separated my company from my competitors was my willingness to show my customers how to replace their windows themselves. Whenever i would encounter a customer with a curiosity or willingness to learn how to install their own windows,i would offer to sell them the labor on one window,using them as my helper.Then,they would install the rest of the windows using the knowledge gained from helping me install one.Most window companies would never do this because there is so much money made on the labor.But i was always so busy,i never felt like it was costing me money.

Eventually, i made an installation video for those homeowners who wanted to do their own windows.While the video is for sale on my website, i decided to take excerpts from the video and write an article once a week covering some part of the window replacement project.This article is going to cover the difference between window frames used in new construction homes, and the window frames that are used to replace existing aluminum or wood windows.

When a new home is being built,the windows are nailed to the wood studs that make up the house frame.In order to accomplish this, new construction windows have a fin around all four sides of the frame that rests against the outside of the stud and nails are driven into the studs through the nailing fin. After that,flashing paper is applied to prevent water leaks,then the exterior material is applied. That material can be stucco, brick, siding, etc.

Now,imagine 10 or 20 years later when you want to replace those windows. If you were going to install your replacement windows the same way the original windows were installed, you would have to remove the exterior material around each window in order to get to those nails holding the frame in there. You can see how this procedure could cause many problems, not to mention all the labor involved. I have seen homes in california with stucco exteriors where the homeowner had the stucco cut out in order to remove the old windows.The problem was they were unable to match the stucco colors after patching. Its just not a very efficient way to replace windows. So the replacement frame was designed.

In most parts of the country it's simply a new construction window frame with the nail fin removed. In the west, where stucco is a common home exterior,a retrofit frame was designed. If you're going to be replacing the exterior material on your home, then you might want to consider going with the new construction window since the nailing fins will be exposed anyway. Also, chances are that a contractor will be doing your exterior replacement,and it would be wise to let the contractor install the windows as well.Since my installation videos deal with window replacement only, these articles will focus on replacement frames and retrofit frames. Using these two frame styles,a do it yourselfer can replace their old windows without any damage to existing interior and exterior surfaces. And the job can be done using common tools such as a drill,tape measure, and caulking gun.

In next weeks article,we will discuss the replacement of wood sash windows.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978

To learn more, visit http://www.vinylwindowsforless.com

Remodeling Porches

Fixing up a porch is a great idea that will extend the use of your home considerably. Using just some paint, stain and basic carpentry skills, you can make your porch a pleasure to spend time on.

An example shown on DoItYourself.com shows a couple from Georgia who wanted enjoy their extended warm seasons of spring, summer and fall, but avoid the problems of mosquitoes and decided to take their slab concrete patio and make it into a screened in area they could enjoy almost all year long.

The patio was just concrete square under a roof overhang. They wanted the porch to blend in with the home, as well as protect the family from the heat, humidity and insects of the Georgia summers. The concrete slab declined slightly to allow for runoff, so there had to be some adjustments made to accommodate this feature.

Here is their step by step solution:

Step One. Cut pre-primed 4X8 sheets of beadboard ceiling paneling.

Step Two. Install the celing paneling and the ceiling fan. They used a nail gun to make the installation of the ceiling panels faster and easier than trying to swing a hammer upward. Before all of the panelling was installed, the ceiling was wired for the fan and light. This will allow the porch to remain cool and the light will allow the room to be used at night. This was a two person job, with one person holding the fan and the other connecting the wires and screwing the fan in place. The finish trim hid the seams in the paneling.

Step Three. Frame out the porch. Using 2X4 boards, they spaced them to allow for standard width screen to be installed. The crosspieces were nailed directly through the vertical braces.

Step Four. Install the interior panelling. Pine and plywood bead board paneling was secured by staple gun. These had to be trimmed along the bottom to accommodate the uneven floor.

Step Five. Install and level the exterior paneling. The harbor ad exterior panels wear put into place, from the bottom up. The first one had to be custom cut to allow for the uneven ground line and then the rest followed. These panels were painted to match the existing exterior of the house, so there was a lot of trial and error to match the aged yellow paint exactly. But weather resistant exterior paint was used so that it can be easily kept clean by rinsing Wit soap and water.

Step Six. Do the screening. Vinyl grids had to be screwed directly into the wooden frames. Then the screens were attached to the channels in the grids, so the fiberglass or aluminum screens could be slid in without using staples. When the screens were rolled into the grids with a spline, the extra screening material was cut off. With a mallet, the caps over the vinyl channels were banged into place.

Being really passionate about tree trimming and saw sharpening, Ray Walberg wrote plenty of detailed articles in this specific field. Sharing his passion in detailed publications, the author improved his experience on topics like chain saws and saw sharpening.

Free Standing Over Hanging Objects

Pressure Treated Lumber

If you are building a deck, retaining wall or a swing set for the kids it is highly likely that your material of choice is pressure treated lumber.

Pressure treated lumber, if installed properly, should provide a 40 year useable life. However, there are some things about pressure treated lumber that you have to know, in order to obtain that life and not have your project fall apart in a few years.

To create pressure treated lumber, raw lumber is impregnated with two waterborne compounds that are copper based chemicals. The amount of copper basically determines the usage and all pressure treated lumber, sold in the US, is supposed to have a tag stapled to the end of the board signifying its pounds of preservative per cubic foot of wood product:

0.25 Above Ground

0.40 Ground Contact

0.60 Permanent Wood Foundation

2.50 Salt Water

Because the lumber is impregnated with Copper, the choice of fasteners becomes very important. When two dissimilar metals come in contact with one another a galvanic reaction is created, the outcome is that the materials corrode and disintegrate. The higher the levels of copper in the lumber the faster that the corrosion will occur.

Although most people realize that they must use corrosion resistant fasteners and connectors many do not consider items such as flashings and light poles that are also in contact with the pressure treated lumber. Of course the best metals to use for fasteners, flashings and anything else that comes in contact with the deck is stainless steel or copper whenever possible. Stainless steel is expensive and copper is not conveniently available at your local lumber supply so the next best material is steel that has been galvanized.

Galvanized fasteners come in different grades (the thickness of the coating), better manufactures mark the box with a G rating. The higher the G rating, the more zinc used. You shouldnt use less than a G-90 rating and engineers are now suggesting the use of G-185. If the box is not marked it is probably a G-60 or less and this will not provide enough zinc coating to prevent galvanization from occurring. Cadmium plated nuts, bolts and screws do not provide any protection from corrosion whatsoever.

Some manufactures have created composite coatings for use with pressure treated lumber. Read the label on the box and make sure that what you are buying is suitable for the job.

Do not use aluminum flashing, deck flashing must be stainless steel, galvanized or copper. Aluminum corrodes very quickly when in contact with copper. This also means that metals items that come in contact with the pressure treated lumber must also be protected, items such as outdoor furniture, and barbeques should have rubber or vinyl feet or wheels.

For additional information on pressure treated lumber for your home or other renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.

Mold Allergy And Other Mold

Bathroom Decor - What You Should Know About Bathroom Showers

When it comes to remodeling the bathroom, one of the first items of interest usually concerns upgrading the shower to match a growing trend or add a different look to this commonly visited room in the house. As you approach the planning phase of remodeling the shower portion of your bathroom, the two most important factors to pay attention to include how much you can afford to spend on the project, as well as the space you have available for your intentions.

Since there are numerous bathroom shower designs and ideas to consider, it is suggested that you browse a couple of home improvement magazines. This will help to set your creative flair in motion, as you never know what will cause inspiration regarding this project. Another important part of planning bathroom-shower remodeling is to record accurate measurements, as this makes the difference in appropriately displaying your vision. It is also suggested to plan the placement of your new bathroom shower where plumbing already exists, as this can become a costly readjustment.

The features you are interested in for your new bathroom shower play an important role in making a final decision. It is recommended to create a list of characteristics and functions that you most desire. For example, do you want more than one jet or is there a need for a massaging jet showerhead? What sort of bathroom shower flooring and wall accompaniments will match your new shower? Do you want a shower that is also connected to a bathtub?

Bathroom Shower Remodeling Ideas

Depending on your budget, the new bathroom shower that replaces your old selection could deliver high-quality luxury that is similar to spa treatments. Offering a tower corner enclosure with eight jets, the Kohler BodySpa delivers a hydro-massage system that permits personalized settings. The angled jets cover all of the desired parts of the body, which provide a rejuvenating shower and massage at the same time.

To capture a bit of elegance, you should consider surrounding a walk-in shower with attractive marble flooring and a fireplace situated nearby. If you want to enjoy relaxation in the comforts of your own home, browse steam shower selections that transport you into a new dimension of calm.

Even the showerheads you install can elevate the experience you undergo when taking a shower. Some of the selections on the market that have been making waves with the public include hand-held showers with chromatherapy, as well as showerheads that offer low-flow rain qualities. An impressive design to mull over when remodeling the bathroom is to create a whole new environment with your shower, as you select modern frameless glass, stainless steel, and stone enclosures.

If you are not interested in revamping your entire shower, perhaps the installation of eye-catching additions to your previous arrangement will do. For instance, a spiral shower rod can become the envy of family and friends. Overall, the market is filled with plenty of upgrades that can make the bathroom your new favorite place to settle into.

If you are looking for additional bathroom decor tips and advice, visit http://www.bathroomdecortips.com for more information.

Home Remodeling

Decorating the Guest Bathroom

The guest bathroom is more important than you might initially think. While the bedroom reserved for overnight visitors is frequently made warm and inviting, the bath theyll be using is often neglected. It doesnt take a lot of time or money, though, to create a welcoming bathroom for guests. But it helps to have some design concepts in mind and to put yourself in the place of a visitor.

What you need to know about design

When youre exploring modern bathroom designs, youll want to focus on the idea of simplicitypartly for the sake of practicality. By choosing a simple bathroom aesthetic, youll be able to create a timeless look that can be updated easily. Choose clean lines for your bathroom vanities and a neutral mirror and faucets. This way, youll be left with something thats easy to modernize with just a new shower curtain or towels rather than a complete remodeling

What you need to know about vanities

Bathroom vanities are a great way to welcome your guests without saying a word. Many vanity styles have storage under the sink in the form of drawers and open or closed shelving There, you can leave any necessities your guests might need: no one, after all, appreciates having to ask their host for shampoo, soap, or toilet paper. Be sure to include basic cleaning supplies too (e.g., sponges and cleansers) for everyones convenience. Another nice touch is a countertop basket filled with toiletries that you can replenish as needed.

Other things to do for your guests

Guests will also need a clear idea of where to put their towels once theyre dirty. This is where a hamper comes in handy. Todays marketplace offers such a wide range of styles and price points that you shouldnt have trouble finding one that matches the look of your bathroom. Just be sure you have enough space for it without cluttering up the room.

And if you want to take that extra step, create a small gift basket filled with bath and shower goodies, candles, and even personal mementos that your guests can carry home with them as a memory of their visit. Besides being fun to put together, its a lovely way to acknowledge the bonds between you. The guest bathroom is truly a reflection of the care and respect you have for your guests. By putting special effort into it, you can make sure that no guest ever feels out of place, or doubts your hospitality and interest in their comfort.

Elliott Williams is VP of Marketing and Public Relations at Kitchen and Bath Warehouse Publishing. Before coming to K&BW, he had his own home-remodeling business for 15 years. You can learn more about interior decorating and remodeling, particularly kitchen and bathroom design, at: www.KitchenAndBathWarehouse.com

Mold Problems
Brown 2 X 2 Stair Handrail

Cool Off Your Attic with Radiant Barrier

It is starting to get cooler outside, so now is the perfect time to talk about making your attic cooler all year long. How would you like to lower your attic temperature by 20 degrees in the summertime? This could be 30 degrees in the southern U.S.

Whether youre building a new home or have an existing home, Im going to tell you the benefits of an attic radiant barrier.

Let me ask you three questions.

1. In the summer, what is the hottest part of your house?

2. Where is your ductwork located? Attic or crawlspace?

3. Why would you put it in the attic?? (For 90% of you its in the attic, right?)

When consulting on new home construction we advise people not to put the ductwork in the attic. You can lower your cooling loads by as much as 20% just by getting the ductwork out of the attic. Now I know that isnt always possible so we recommend placing the ductwork directly on the ceiling joists and covering it with cellulose insulation. This along with an attic radiant barrier makes for a pretty efficient heating and cooling system.

For existing home construction we advise using an attic radiant barrier that either staples to the bottom of rafters or covers your attic insulation like a blanket.

Using attic radiant barriers is not a new concept. It has been around since 1960. In 1999 Doug Rye decided to use TechShield radiant barrier roof decking on a model home. The builder has his doubts but Doug insisted on using TechShield. After it was installed, the builder was sold on it. It was summertime and he found that it was much cooler working inside the unfinished house once the radiant barrier was installed than it was outside.

Since then we have heard story after story of how radiant barrier lowers the temperature of a house during construction. Weve heard stories from framers where they would rather eat lunch inside the house because its cooler than outside. Even the framers working next door eat lunch with them because its cooler.

The radiant barrier roof decking product is made using a process that laminates a thin, yet durable, sheet of aluminum foil to the surface of OSB board. When the sun strikes a roof, the radiant energy from the sun heats the roof and that heat radiates into the attic.

50%-75% - Radiant Heat Loss

Radiant barrier prevents up to 97 percent of that radiant heat in the roof from radiating in to the attic. As a result, it can lower the attic temperature by 30 degrees. And in the southern U.S. where temperatures easily reach 95 degrees and above, thats a huge difference!

For years, weve been telling homeowners not to put the ductwork in the attic and thats still good advice. But if your ductwork is in the attic, I recommend installing an attic radiant barrier which is available at most home centers.

By reducing temperatures in the attic, you are taking a lot of heat off the ductwork, which means your air conditioner wont have to work as hard and youll save money on your electric bill. And, of course, you also need plenty of cellulose insulation in the attic to keep the heat from radiating into the living areas of the home. Ill cover cellulose insulation in a future issue.

The most common concern people have regarding attic radiant barrier has to do with the temperature of the shingles of the roof. They want to know if it will damage the roof shingles by allowing them to get too hot. Well, the answer is no.

Attic radiant barrier won't melt the shingles. A study in Florida measured the temperatures of roof shingles above radiant barriers and found that the peak temperatures are only 2 to 5 degrees higher than the temperature of shingles on roofs without radiant barriers.

For existing home construction a thin, light weight radiant barrier can be installed. This radiant barrier is either stapled to the underside of the rafters or is laid over the ceiling insulation. This radiant barrier is clean, easy to handle, and requires no special tools or clothing.

A radiant barrier is available at most home improvement centers for around 60 cents per square foot.

Until next month, be safe and God Bless!

Phillip Rye www.philliprye.com

Doug Rye is a nationally recognized energy consultant and licensed architect. Doug also host the "Home Remedies" radio talk show that is broadcast in 15 states.

Phillip Rye is a licensed engineer and has spent the past 15 years studying energy efficiency and energy conservation.

Discover how you can have lower utility bills guaranteed! Visit http://www.dougrye.com

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